It’s been a tough 12 months to be a fan of family-owned, hole-in-the-wall restaurants in Winnipeg.

The challenge for these independent eateries, many of which have near-iconic status, is the spiralling cost of real estate – particularly in and around downtown – which makes it prohibitively expensive to move into an updated location.

Prospective owners of these cultural touchstones are reluctant to commit because they would no longer be grandfathered through many new rules and regulations, which then would trigger extensive renovation costs. The bathrooms at C. Kelekis Restaurant, for example, are in the basement. (This still popular diner dates from the 1940s.) The requirement for every new restaurant in town is that they be located on the main floor.

It all started a year ago, when Alycia’s, a Ukrainian eatery famous for its perogies – and the favourite restaurant of late actor John Candy – closed its doors in the city’s North End after more than 30 years.

In July, the Wagon Wheel Lunch, a downtown institution for more than a half-century known for its world-famous clubhouse sandwiches, followed suit. Its longtime home was being demolished to make way for new downtown development, and its owner deemed it too expensive to move into new premises.

And just a few weeks ago, Kelekis announced it will turn off its grill for good at the end of January. “I’ve worked here all my life,” says Mary Kelekis, the 88-year-old face of the restaurant. “It’s a second home to me. [Closing down] is a very difficult thing for me.”

Mary’s father, Chris – the C in the restaurant’s name – started selling french fries (or “chips,” as he called them) out of a Model T Ford in 1931. Soon after, he added hotdogs and corn on the cob to his menu.

Over the years, Kelekis developed an extremely loyal clientele. People who moved away would often plop themselves down at the lunch counter on visits home, having come directly from the airport.

No visit to Kelekis was complete without spending a few minutes marvelling at its Wall of Fame. More than 100 pictures of Kelekis’ most famous customers hang there, including a pair of former prime ministers, Pierre Trudeau and Jean Chrétien; former premier Gary Filmon; former mayors Susan Thompson and Bill Norrie; hockey players Bobby Hull, his Winnipeg Jets linemate, Anders Hedberg, Hull’s son, Brett, and Billy Mosienko, who once scored three goals in 21 seconds; and entertainers Randy Bachman from The Guess Who and Let’s Make A Deal host Monty Hall.

Trudeau stopped by many years ago at the height of Trudeaumania. “It was the first time somebody really wanted to come to a place in the North End,” Kelekis said. “He had a hotdog, and I had a picture taken [with him].”

Her restaurant will be packed until its last day with many teary-eyed customers. Its pending closure has local foodies worried about how long some of their remaining favourites – such as Rae & Jerry’s steakhouse, the Red Top Drive Inn and The Garwood Grill – have until their owners also decide to retire.

It’s enough to make them lose their appetite.

© 2013 Investment Executive. All rights reserved.